Xiâolóngbāo (小籠包)

The evolution of Xiao long man tou dough provides the most illuminating insight of the uniqueness of this dumpling, as well as culinary, agricultural and economic development in China. The dough used to make Xiao long man tou is made from wheat flour and is a mix of both unrefined flour and refined white flour. This curious combination arose because of the unique location of Shanghai, where Xiao long mon tou was created. Shanghai sits on the southern banks of the Yangtze River, which is often used as geographical divider between northern and southern China. Chinese easterners also refer it to as the “main street of China” because of its crucial role in cultural diffusion, the spread and diversification of agriculture and the overall development of China. The fact that Shanghai and its surrounding provinces is where the bulk of Silk production took place and was traded onto the Silk Road also is a contributing factor. The Yangzte is also referred to as the “rice-noodle line” because north of the river is too cold and dry to grow rice and wheat growing did not penetrate to the south of the river for thousands of years after its introduction to China. However, in the immediate areas surrounding Shanghai, the river has deposited so much silt and is a dependable source of water that they are China’s most fertile lands. This is relevant because the dough of Xiao long man tou reflects the uniqueness of its place of origin and as a result is the only dough of its kind. Before examining the dough’s properties, it is first necessary to examine the introduction of its components into China to understand why they were used.

Wheat (Xiaomai) was first introduced to northeastern China about 3000 BC from Nomads wandering what eventually became known as the Silk Road. However, wheat was not cultivated on a widespread basis until the Zhou/Han dynasties (1046-256 BC). By this time, the earliest antecedent of Xiao long man tou had diffused across the north/south barrier and was being made with wheat flour – mantou. Before the Zhou/Han dynasties, wheat flour was only used among the aristocracy – an important consideration for the cultural significance that dumplings and steamed breads came to play in China. The impetus for this diffusion was the commencement of the Silk trade using the Silk Road, which cuts latitudinally across China. By 3000 B.C. the Chinese perfected the wheat flour fermentation techniques by using easily fermented rice as a catalyst. Subsequently, the use of wheat flour, as apposed to rice flour, exploded across China, particularly in the northern provinces. This increase use of flour incentivized farmers to grow more wheat and thus the amount of wheat grown in China also skyrocketed. Communities along Yangtze River, being the hubs of exchange along the Silk Road, integrated the food goods flowing along the Silk Road into their diets – flour included. Finally, during the Ming and Qing dynasties the eastern provinces (lower Yangtze delta) amassed so much wealth and surplus that the city of Shanghai arose. One of the main constituencies of Shanghai’s early population were the Shanxi, who brought with them both a love of wheat flour-based dough and the Chinese dumplings they made with it, called jiaozi. During this time period eastern china, specifically Shanghai experienced an influx of trade with the west – among the many western influences that diffused into eastern China during this period were white flour and the methods and equipment needed to make it. Before this, only unrefined wheat flour due to the lack of the refining techniques necessary to make white flour. Accordingly, original recipes for Xioa long man tou, which was innovated during the Quing dynasty, call for a mix of both unrefined flour and white wheat flours. This combination gives the dough the delicacy and elasticity of highly refined flours, while maintaining the taste, texture, nutritional value and cultural significance of unrefined wheat flour. In addition, pork fat is often added to dough to make the dumpling’s skin more pliable and tender, as well as infuse the dough with the taste and smell of pork. The mixing of meat and non-meat ingredients is at the foundation of many Chinese dishes and seeks to achieve balance in a meal, but in a blended seamless manner. The adding of the pork fat also adds to the scrumptious aroma given off when the dumplings are steamed – aroma is another essential factor in Chinese Cuisine.

The actual dough for Xiao long man tou should be sticky after it is initially mixed and kneaded. The dough is then chilled for a either several hours or a full day – depending on the recipe – after which it should be slightly firm, but still moist and extremely elastic and pliable. When the dough is rolled out into rounds, the rounds should appear almost see through when held up to the light.