Jiaozi 饺子

“Lovely and pleasing, mouth-watering,

The wrapper is thin but it does not burst.

Rich flavors are blended within,

A plump aspect appears without.

They are as tender as spring wool,

As white as autumn silk.”

-Shu Xi  (ca. 264-ca. 304) “Rhapsody of Pasta”

(“Bing fu”) (Knechtges 236)

So once you have these crescent-shaped dumplings, heat is applied in order to cook them, achieving tenderness.  In China, boiling is known as “zhu” and is “perhaps the very first such cooking method using fire” (Newman 70).  Steaming is a technique known as “zheng,” hence “zhengjiao,” which involves direct contact with steam using boiling water and placing a bamboo covered basket on top (Newman 71).  If the steam is not in direct contact with the dumpling, however, this is technique known as dun (e.g. top part of a double boiler) (Newman 71).  The precise method of cooking, include the initial application of moist heat and then secondary method, are described below:

To boil the dumplings: “Bring 3 quarts of water to a rolling boil in a large pot over high heat.  Add 2 teaspoons of salt, which will seal the dough.  Then add the fresh or frozen jiaozi and gently stir a few times with a wooden spoon – enough to make sure they don’t stick to the pot.  Bring the water back to a boil and then slowly add 1 cup of cold water.  Let the water come back to the boil, and slowly add another cup of cold water.  When the water boils again and the jiaozi are slightly puffy, scoop them out with a strainer and place on a plate...Homemade fresh jiaozi are done in about 5 minutes total.  Frozen ones take a minute or so more to cook” (Lin 138).  “Make sure you cook them until jiaozis float on top of the water” (Chen, Chen, & Tseng 410).

“And then, when the fire is blazing and the hot water is bubbling,

Savage fumes rise as steam.

Pushing up his sleeves, dusting off his coat,

The cook grasps and presses, pats and pounds.

Flour is webbed to his finger tips,

And his hands whirl and twirl, crossing back and forth.

In a flurrying frenzy, in a motley mixture,

The dumplings scatter like stars, pelt like hail.

Meat does not burst into the steamer,

And there is no loose flour on the dumplings.”

-Shu Xi  (ca. 264-ca. 304) “Rhapsody of Pasta”

(“Bing fu”) (Knechtges 236)

If you prefer to fry instead of boiling the jiaozi, this is also a possibility.  Guotie (potstickers) are first fried and then steamed by adding water to the same pan.  Ultimately, they become golden brown and crispy on the bottom and soft on top, “bursting with juice inside” (Lin 141). 

To fry the dumplings: “Use a 10-inch skillet for fifteen dumplings or a 14-inch skillet for thirty dumplings; the skillet should preferably be nonstick, so that if the dumplings aren’t properly sealed, they can easily be removed when done.  Heat the skillet over high heat until hot, add 2 tablespoons of oil (3 for a 14-inch skillet) and swirl, then turn the heat to medium high.  Place the dumplings in a winding circle in the pan.  When the bottoms of the dumplings turn light brown – in about 1 minute – add 6 tablespoons of water.  Cover and cook until the water evaporates – about 5 minutes.  Uncover and let the dumplings fry a little more – about 2 to 3 minutes – until a dark-brown crust forms on the bottom and the dumplings start to puff up.  Transfer the dumplings from the pan to a serving plate, setting them browned side up” (Lin 144).  Be sure to serve them all hot with ginger and vinegar sauce on the side” (Chen, Chen, & Tseng 410).

Zheng (or Cheng) jiao are steamed dumplings that are more delicate than their boiled and fried counterparts.  In this excerpt from the “Rhapsody of Pasta” written by Western Jin scholar Shu Xi, the poet describes the rapid transfer of dumplings in and out of the steamer.  Zhengjiao are known as “a specialty of Beijing” and are typically served directly from a bamboo steamer (Lin 145).  To prevent the dumplings from sticking, you can oil the rack beforehand or use 1 ½-inch squares of aluminum foil or place parboiled bok choy leaves on the steamer rack (Lin 145).  Because zhengjiao have a more mild, subtle taste, it is good to serve them with something flavorful and hearty (Lin 145) 

“If you are using a bamboo steamer, cut out a small square of foil for each dumpling and place on two racks.  Place the dumplings on the racks ½ inch apart.  Cover and steam over high heat for 8 minutes.  Serve immediately.” (Lin 146)

“If you are using a large pot, arrange them on an oiled plate sitting on top of a tin can with its ends removed.  Pour in boiling water around the can to within 2 inches of the plate.  Bring the water to a boil before you put the plate on.  Cover the pot and steam over medium-high heat for 8 minutes.  Serve immediately.” (Lin 146)